Shark Adventure

Location: Noordhoek, Cape Town, South Africa

This update covers The Karoo, our brief journey on the Garden Route, cage diving with great white sharks near Hermanus, a few wonderful days gorging ourselves on good food and wine in the winelands and a couple of places north of Cape Town that have yet to be discovered by the masses.

After Lesotho and the Drakensberg we went south west towards the Karoo, the name of a massive region that covers almost a third of the country. We stayed in a small old style Dutch town of Graaff-Reinet, very picturesque in the centre but, as with many towns, it had an a large township on the outskirts, to provide all the necessary cheap labour for all those people for whom cleaning and ironing is an appalling thought. The surrounding area is a massive expanse of very little. Very few settlements, very little vegetation, almost no water. A harsh and inhospitable place, but somewhere where you really can get away from everything. It is also baking hot, so the walking we did really was more walking rather than hiking, a little half-hearted. Though you only need to go a short distance from the town to be far removed from anyone else, so we didn't miss anything by not struggling on in the heat of the day.

Tsitsikamma National Park
On the south coast, to the eastern end of the Garden Route is a very dramatic stretch of coastline that reminded me a bit of parts of the Californian coast south of San Francisco: rugged and rocky, with white-tipped waves crashing all around. There is a 5-day trek that can be done, but the first couple of hours is accessible for day-trippers, so we were able to see a bit of the coastal path. Not far from here is the world's highest bungy jump (about 210m), but we both gave it a miss.

The Overberg
We passed along the Garden Route fairly quickly, partly because it was Easter and it was proving difficult to find somewhere to stay, and because the other place we had wanted to go to, Oudtshoorn, was booked out for a festival of Afrikaaner culture (whatever that may involve, over and above some hard core bible worship, reaffirmation of a belief of their chosen status in God's eyes (sounds familiar??) and perhaps some plaintive cries of how much better things were when they ruled SA).

The mountains a little north of the south coast are the Overberg, and we were able to have a couple of good days walking, nothing too strenuous, but the views from the higher parts are great. Swellendam was a lovely, quiet town, and we had a little cottage to ourselves, with fine views over the hills opposite.

More vineyards
Having been to vineyards in many of the countries we have been to so far we were not going to miss the opportunity to go in South Africa. Many people know of Stellenbosch and Paarl but Robertson is another large wine producing region and we spent a day taking in a few estates and sampling a few bottles. MacGregor is one of the best preserved 19th century towns and has a sleepy feel, as it time has just passed it by completely.

We did also go back to Franschhoek, where we had a wonderful couple of days in 2000 and, again, had a great time on this visit. The town promotes itself as SA’s food capital and there are a number of fantastic restaurants here. So it was a couple of days of eating extremely well and taking 3 hours over lunch. Sadly the town seems to have been a little more discovered (by Brits in particular) during the last 5 years and it had grown a lot, losing some of its charm.

Great White Sharks!
There are only a few places in the world where you can get close to one of earth's most well adaptedly predators, great white sharks. Having suffered a bad press ever since Jaws! there are not quite under threat, but numbers have declined massively over the last 30 years. This is certainly something that many people would be reluctant to do, especially the day after a British surfer got part of his leg nibbled by a 4m great white in Noordhoek (where we are staying now). But we were not to be deterred, (although the prospect of another bout of heavy sea-sickness did make Phillippa a little wary).

Apparently there has been some press in the UK lately about a number of attacks (we did see the Yorkshire bloke who was nipped on the foot on the TV news here). But we were not to be deterred, after all they give you a cage! A little south of Hermanus, near to the southern most point of Africa, there are a couple of small islands where there are large seal colonies, a shark larder if you like. So this is one of the best places to see great whites in the world.

After waiting around for a while the first shark appeared and Phillippa and I were straight into the cage first. The water is cold, about 16C, and even with a wetsuit the chill does eventually start to get into your core. But after about 15 minutes the first shark appeared whilst we were in the cage and could watch it under the water. I nearly missed it, and with visibility of about 5-6m it was not much more than a shadow as it disappeared as quickly as it had appeared. A little later a second one emerged from the gloom behind us but that too was a fleeting glimpse. Whilst we were out of the water there were a number of other occasions when a shark approached the boat. It is actually better to see them from above the surface, especially when the water is so murky.

It was a good afternoon out, but somehow was not quite as exciting as I had hoped it would be, but that is the way it often is when dealing with such unpredictable wildlife.

Paternoster
There is a small, quiet, unspoilt fishing town north from Cape Town that has, as yet, not been inundated with hoards of tourists, and we had a great few days here, doing very little. We got hold of some very cheap crayfish straight from the local fleet that had just come back in, and the bloke whose holiday flat we rented cooked them for us. The beach was deserted, even at the weekend, it was such a massive expanse of wide golden sand. The sunsets here were possibly better than anywhere else we have been, and that is something. So, of course, that led to a whole load more sunset photos. The benefits of digital can sometimes become a curse too!

The Cederberg Mountains
A little inland from Paternoster is another range of mountains that are ideal for walking, so that is what we did. Some of the scenery is similar to the Drakensberg, though less grand. There are many sites that have cave painting here and we saw quite a few on one walk in particular.

Then back to Cape Town, where the severe drought has been broken by a huge thunderstorm on the one day when we wanted to get all our stuff washed and dried before going to Namibia. Still, we managed to dry it all out in the oevn, os no problem in the end!

Not long left now…
We will be back in the UK early on Sat 7 May and hopefully will be landing to a country that has a new Prime Minister. And, no, I don’t mean Gordon Brown.

Some more from Africa

Location: Hermanus, south coast of South Africa

Following on from the previous introduction to Africa, we then went to some of the battlefields, to Lesotho, hiked in the Drakensberg mountains.

We have not managed, yet, to see either cheetahs or leopards in the wild, but we did manage to get inside a cheetah enclosure at a centre for rehabilitating cats. They also had African wild cats, caracals and servals, but the highlight was definitely seeing cheetahs from a couple of meters. They were kept occupied by a few large pieces of chicken, so they didn't show too much interest in us. Very beautiful creatures.

Stop throwing those bloody spears at me
There are a huge number of battlefields in the region to the east of the Drakensberg mountains and Lesotho, in northern KwaZulu Natal. Zulus v Boers. Brits v Zulus and Brits v Boers. Of course, the one that most people remember is the battle at Rorke's Drift, immortalised by Michael Caine and the 12 VCs that were awarded. A handful of stoic Brits fought off more than 4,000 Zulus. This occured one day after another bunch of Brits took a serious beating at Isandlwana one of the worst defeats in British military history.

The battlefield here is still a place that is quite emotionally charged. There are small piles of whitewashed stones that are where bodies of British soldiers fell. (There are not any equivalent markers for the zulu warriors.) There are those that say that the 12 VCs awarded to the soldiers of Rorke's Drift was the result of a clever bit of media manipulation to try to overshadow the terrible defeat with a tale of glorious victory. There is a film based on this Zulu victory, but it is not as well know, in fact I cannot now remember the name of it.

The Drakensberg
Some of the most amazing scenery we have hiked in can be found in the Drakensberg mountains, and that is saying something having been to the Andes and NZ. One walk in particular was stunning: up to the top of The Amphitheatre. The views from the plateau are for miles and miles, and you can stand right on the edge where the rock just falls away for about 1,000m, almost straight down. It was partly cloudy when we arrived, which was disappointing, but with a little patience we were rewarded with some of the most spectacular views we have yet to witness. For anyone going to the Drakensberg this is a must-do.

We tried to walk up to a gorge on another day, but high water levels put us off. After crossing the river once (boots off, up to above the knee in icy cold water) and the rpospect of doing this repeatedly further upstream, we decided to give it a miss. From what we heard we didn't miss much anyway.

Lesotho
We had wanted to go into Lesotho, but were wary of doing this ourselves due to very under-developed infrastructure. We had planned to go over via Sabi pass, but people we met said they really struggled without a 4x4. We didn't want to go to the western side, since that is a little more developed, with the capital and some greater chance of running into car-jackers, who can be found readily in Maseru.

As it turned out we saw a very remote and unreachable corner of Lesotho when we took a 1-day trip from the place we were staying. The border post on the Lesotho side comprised 2 caravans, and they were being "renovated" so there was nobody on duty and we just passed straight in. This is a crossing that gets about 5 vehicles per day, so it is not busy.

Lesotho, also a kingdom like Swaziland, is the highest country in the world (apparently judged by the height of the lowest point), and the mountains here are simply stunning. Small villages nestle in the foothills, collections of simple, round mud and thatch huts. We visited on a Saturday, so the school (supported by the company that runs the trip) was shut, but many of the children (those who don't live a 2 hour walk away) were happily following us around.

It is of course very difficult to get any kind of appreciation of a place, even one as small as Lesotho, in one day. But the small part we saw was fascinating. It was barely touched by the 20th century. No electricity, (though we did spot a satellite dish powered by a solar panel and car battery), and a very spartan existence. It would have been interesting to be able to visit for a few days, but having seen the state of the roads I am glad that we didn't try with our car!

Safari Adventure

Location: Graff-Reinet, The Karoo, Eastern Cape, South Africa

In which we go to Soweto, the Kruger National Park, Swaziland, Sodwana Bay and the St Lucia wetlands.

The first week in Africa was spent near to Jo'burg, with some of Phillippa's family, including her parents who were at the end of their winter break in South Africa. As ever, it was nice to see friendly faces, though slightly surreal at times since it seemed to conflict with our previous lone and transient existence, just meeting people here and there.

Soweto
South Western Township, on the edge of Jo'burg, known by most people as the scene of some fairly disturbing and violent news footage during the 1980s, (and before if you are old enough to remember it). Nowadays, since 1994, many of the townships have had the corrugated iron shanty towns replaced by government built housing, but Soweto is still a large sprawling area, a city in its own right as it is home to more than 3 million people. As with any city there ae the posh parts and the less well to do areas. Some districts of Soweto are as wealthy, or more so, than some of the white suburbs of Jo'burg, filled with the current generation of lawyers and doctors. There is no avoiding the history of the struggle, Soweto is littered with sites of importance during the apartheid years. One of these is the Hector Pieterson museum, near to the point where the first schoolboy was shot during the school strikes of 1976. As with the Sharpeville massacre before it, this was to ignite a series of events that can almost be directly traced through to the first elections of 1994. Soweto is a fascinating place, if only because of its normality, well worth a day of anyone's time if in Jo'burg.

On Safari in the Kruger
After Jo'burg we drove up to the Kruger National Park (KNP), with a detour to go and see Blyde River Canyon. In all we spent 5 nights in the park, and it was fantastic. We have seen some wonderful wildlife on this trip, but the KNP was up there near to the best places (though, perhaps, slightly behind). It is one of the more accessible parks in Southern Africa, you can drive yourself around the network of tarred and unpaved roads, and the prices are not as outrageous as others. In all, it covers an area about the size of Wales, and is larger than nearby Swaziland. Once all the fences come down with the area in Mozambique it will be even larger.

One of the highlights was a morning walk, near to Satara. This area, due to the underlying geology and hence vegetation, has the highest concentration and diversity of game in the park, including the highest density of lions. And here was where we first saw these amazing big cats. There was a dead wildebeest beside the road and a lioness lying beside it, only a few metres away. Once this cat disappeared 2 more lionesses appeared from the grass and wandered around the vehicle for a couple of minutes. At one point one lay down on the verge of the road, right beside us. It really was (another) David Attenborough moment. We did see lions on a couple of other occasions, but never as close as this, where they were almost within touching distance.

It is difficult to go very far without seeing something, although on some of our trips we saw very little. But generally there are animals everywhere: elephants crossing the road just in front of us; groups of Burchill's zebra grazing beside the road; herds of buffalo; families of giraffe nibbling at the upper branches of trees; hippos chilling out in water holes; spotted hyenas wandering around at dawn. There are antelopes everywhere, we saw, over 6 days, thousands of impala and some of those harder to spot, like kudu, steenbok and klipspringer.

But it is not just the larger life that is interesting. We saw huge numbers of birds, leopard tortoises,the odd mongoose etc. The list is too long to enumerate.

We also had a flat tyre, near to Satara, the area with the highest lion population in the park. So that needed changing, we couldn't limp back to camp on it. Of course, there was no problem, but it makes for another interesting tale.

The Kingdom of Swaziland
After the Kruger NP we went south into Swaziland for about 5 days. We spent a couple of days walking in the Malalotja Nature Reserve, in the West, which was fantastic, glorious unspoilt mountain scenery, no signs of human life anywhere once we got a few minutes from the car. Large herds of blesbok were often around our little hut, and we had a few night time visitors scrabbling through our room looking for food too. But it was not about the wildlife but the views. Here, and elsewhere in Swaziland, there is some of the most beautiful countryside we have seen. The other high point in the Kingdom was the Mkhaya Game Reserve, where, they say, you are most likely to see a black rhino in the wild. It was here that we had our best views of white rhino (having only caught a glimpse from a distance in the Kruger) and the elusive, and endangered, black rhino.

Swaziland has managed to retain its original African essence, in a way that has been impossible in South Africa. Their culture is still very strong, and efforts are being made to keep it that way, and not let it be diluted by outside influences. We had a great time in our short stay, and managed to pick up some quite nice souvenirs. Now we just have to work out how to get all the stuff home.

St Lucia Wetlands Marine Reserve World Heritage Site
On the east coast of South Africa, south of the border with Mozambique is the St Lucia wetlands and Sodwana Bay. We went diving in Sodwana Bay, apparently Africa's most southerly coral reef, and it was great. Huge schools of tropical fish, colourful coral, a massive variety of life in a small area. The fact that the water was about 25C, compared to 13C for our last dive in NZ, helped enormously too. On our first dive we saw a few dolphins swimming around the boat so just leapt in, there and then, and dpent about 10 minutes snorkelling with them. This was a great free bonus, especially since dolphion swimming trips are normally about £50!

That doesn't take us quite up to date, but I will try to fill in the last couple of weeks soon. (Internet access here is still diabolical.)

Australia

Location: St Lucia Wetlands, Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa

In which we go to the outback and then back out to Sydney, and on another trip to Antarctica.

It has been a fair while since an update here, mainly due to it being next to impossible to find any internet cafes that a) exist, b) function at all, or c) are not so painfully slow that it takes more than 20 minutes just to seee if anyone has written to us, let alone read any emails. It appears that this part of Afirca is years behind South America, where finding reliable and fast connections was never a problem. Here, it is 10-20 times slower and 10 times more expensive!

Red Centre
After leaving NZ we went to Ayers Rock Resort, (which saves flying to Alice Springs then travelling the 300+km to the rock). I was expecting to be slightly disappointed by Uluru (Ayers Rock), after all it is just a large rock in the middle of the desert. The region is red, it is smack in the middle of the continent, it is dusty and it is hot. It also has some of the most persistent flies I have ever seen.

It was, however, well worth the trip. We did the obligatory sunrise and sunset viewings, and walked around the base of the rock. We didn't climb up the rock, since the Aborigines prefer you not to, because it is a sacred place for them. So why don't they just close the rock to climbers? Well, perhaps money plays a part. But we also heard another interesting reason. The title to the land was given back to the people in the 1980s, and is now leased back to the government for the National Park. But the government gave the land back to the wrong tribe, group A. The land holds no particular significance for group A, but it does have spiritual value for group B. But group B are not represented at all on the board that controls the Park, group A has a majority, the rest representng the government. So group B has no voice. Groups A & B have also had a long running acrimoniou feud over the millenia, hence A has no interest in helping B! Hence you can still climb Ayes Rock, despite it being desperately offensive to some of the local people to do so.

The other wondeful site worth a visit to is about 40km from Uluru, The Olgas. A series of exposed lumps of rck, up to c. 500m high, with canyons between them. Another good place for walking, and it was here that we saw a wallaby with a joey.

The flight to and from Sydney was also interesting, but only for a short while as the scenery is a tad repetetive!

Sydney
It was good to be back in Sydney, it feels almost quite familiar now. The last time I was here was for a wedding, and that couple have since emigrated out here, so we were able to stay with them and catch up over a few drinks. (There is a mix of Aussie and Scottish in this marriage, so it was quite a few drinks.) So thank you to the Stobos for looking after us.

We didn't feel any pressure to do much of the touristy stuff in Sydney, having covered much of that before. We did head up the coast for a couple of days, stopping at Hunter Valley to sample a few wines, then visiting various beautiful beaches up towards Forster.

From Sydney we flew to Jo'burg, on what has to be one of the most stunning scheduled commercial air routes. You set off over Tasmania towards the Antarctic circle, then at 65 degrees south follow this latitude, which is very near to the edge of the continent, around towards Africa. We could clearly see ice flows, big ice bergs etc. The pilot would interrupt the movies to anounce particularly impressive ice berg sightings, and, in an almost comical cartoon fashion, people would ruch from one side of the plane to the other! A great sightseeing flight, a real unexpected bonus. But, of course, not a patch on being down there with the penguins!

So far in Africa we have seen some wonderful things but they will have to wait for another day!

Notes from a South Island

Location: Christchurch, South Island, NZ

In which we visit a few more vineyards (including Cloudy Bay), walk on a Glaciar, skydive from 15,000ft, jump off a ledge into a 120m deep canyon, dive Milford Sound, kayak in Abel Tasman and relax in Dunedin & Christchurch.

After taking the ferry to Picton, through the beautiful Marlborough Sounds, we headed a little to the south to Renwick. This is the small town that is nearest to the main vineyard area of Marlborough, (Blenheim is a bit further away). We had a wonderful day cycling around from estate to estate, samling a little as we went, with a long lazy lunch overlooking some vines. It is all very flat so cycling is no effort and it was one of the first proper hot and sunny summer days that they had had so far this year. Very pleasant, and it left us with a few bottles to enjoy over the following weeks.

When I was last in NZ, (Nov 2000), I only went to the South Island, but didn't manage to go to Abel Tasman. So we corrected this mistake this time and what a stunning place it is. Some of the most gorgeous beaches I have seen anywhere. The water is a very clear emerald green, fringed by dark blue as it gets deeper. It is just a shame that the water is quite cold. Not so cold to stop us getting in mind (and not as cold as the sea was in Antarctica!). We spent two days paddling up the coast, with most afternoons lazing on a beach, after we had put the tent up. The third day we walked back down the coastal track for about 7 hours before being picked up. The forest stretches all the way down to rocky a shoreline that is interspersed with golden beaches, many of which are only accessible from the sea. We saw a few seals and a solitary penguin and had a great few days splashing around in the sun. This trip has been one of the highlights in a couple of great months in NZ.

From Abel Tasman we went to Arthur's Pass. Sadly the weather was pretty poor, but we still got out in the rain for a few hours to walk part of the way up the Bealey Valley track even though the views were disappointing. It rained heavily for about 3 days as we were around the northen part of the West Coast, but since then we have been blessed with sunny skies. It looks like summer has finally arrived in NZ.

The Glaciars
We have seen many glaciars in the Andes, including some of the most visually impressive to be seen anywhere, but we didn't actually get on them to have a walk around. This had to wait until we got to the glaciars on the west coast of the South Island. Like Perito Moreno (see the Oct 04 archives) the glaciars here descend down through temperate rainforest, and the termainal faces of the 2 main ones in NZ (Fox & Franz Josef) are currently advancing, as is Perito Moreno. We went for a walk on Fox Glaciar, which is slightly cheaper than Franz Josef, and more importantly was easier to find accommodation at short notice. We spent about 4-5 hours on the ice, found a few caves that enabled us to get some photos of the blue hues that are characteristic of compressed ice. Although the trip was well worth doing, Foz can in no way match the grandeur of Perito Moreno.

Wanaka
On the southern shores of Lake Wanaka, this town has a great location, and here was the next stop after the glaciars. One of Phillippa's ambitions for the NZ part of the trip was to go skydiving. So we did. Wanaka has fantastic geography, which becomes even more impressive from a small plane at 15,000ft (about 4,600m). Since it is a tandem jump, with a qualified bloke strapped to your back, there is very little to do, it is a very passiev involvement. Hence there is actually very little to worry about, and there is no requirement to make that decisive leap out of the door. Before you know what is happening, the plane is disappearing, the wind is rushing all the way through your sinuses and the ground looks a long way away.

It was very memorable. We had near perfect conditions, with great all round visability and limited cloud cover. Were it not for the cost I would have loved to go straight back up and do another one! There are some photos of us just before we jumped (Phillippa and me), these can also be found via the link on the right.

For the other few days that we were here we did a bit of walking and a fair amount of just lounging around in the sun. We took a friend's advice and went to the cinema in Wanaka, a quirky place that has sofas and lounge chairs, with an intermission for pre-ordered food. A much more enjoyable experience than a cavernous, characterless cinema. In fact we also went to another boutique cinema in Motueka that was even smaller, with space for only about 18 people.

Our stay in Wanaka was blighted slightly by the presence of bed bugs! Eugh! Having avoided them until now, despite staying in some places of dubious quality, dear old first-world NZ was where we found them. Or they found us. Very unpleasant, and extremely itchy it was too!

On the way to Queenstown we stopped at a few more vineyards, and restocked the boot of the car for the final couple of weeks!

Queenstown
QT is known as NZ's adrenaline centre, so we indulged a little. The latest craze, post-bungy, is for large swings. The same idea as the swing you find in playgrounds, but here there are just much larger. The Shotover canyon swing that we did involves a fall of about 60m before a gentle arc that bottoms out at about 110m below the platform. All this takes place in a gorge, with a gorgeous river flowing down below. Having jumped forwards at the 134m Nevis bungy before, this time it was time for a backwards jump. People say this is more scary than going forwards, but I'm not so sure. Hands behind the head, then you just fall gently backwards, as if falling onto a bed. But rather than being held on a big fluffy duvet, you just keep falling. We have a photo of this, and one of Phillippa, but not a digital copy. Phillippa kept running once in mid-air, a bit like a cartoon character. It was so much fun I decided to do a second jump. This time I was hung upside down, back to the near canyon wall, but with arched back, my arms stretched above my head and looking directly down and slightly behind me. When they let me go I rushed down the side of the rock face before levelling out. Quite good fun really! The second one was not particularly scary since it didn't involve a conscious decision to jump, someone else pulled the pin. I think that maybe going over forwars, as Phillippa did, is perhaps the hardest way, since you can clearly see where you are going and it is that which drives the fear factor.

The other trip we went on was to go river surfing, something I had done and enjoyed last time. Riding through 1-1.5m waves on a white water river is much more fun on a small polystyrene board than in the comfort of a big rubber raft. Having your head a few inches above the water certainly makes them appear a whole lot bigger!

Fiordland
After QT we went to the fiords, Milford Sound in particular. This is the most touristy, and we had thought about going to Doubtful Sound, but because we went on a diving trip we managed to avoid nearly all the other tourists in their large ships. Because of a layer of freshwater, stained by organic matter, sitting above the salt water of the sea, a lot of the light is filtered out. This means that conditions at 20m replicate those that are normally found at nearer 100m. So we could see black coral (which is actually white) and red coral, plus a variety of deep water fish. It was a great couple of dives, with a great company that we would highly recommend (Tawaki Dive). Plus the sea was very flat, inside the protected fiord, meaning Phillippa could enjoy it too!

Since that point we have been quite relaxed for the last 2 weeks. No long hikes, a few short walks, some beautiful coastal scenery in the Catlins, which is at the very south of the south island, along the Southern Scenic Highway. We then proceeded up to Dunedin for a couple of days and are now at the end of a few days in Christchurch.

We didn't make any real effort to see penguins in Dunedin, having seen thousands in Antarctica. (In fact earlier to day we picked up 10 rolls of developed photos that cover Paraguay to Antarctica, and we have a lot fo snaps of penguins. A lot of icebergs too!) Christchurch is very attractive: large enough to have most of what you might need, but small enough to make getting around easy, with limited congestion. A very pleasant way to end our time time in NZ, relaxing with a beer, in the sun on the banks of the Avon, watching punts drift by.

A wise old geezer once said that he was glad to have gone to NZ before going to South America, since some of the scenery in NZ is similar to but utterly dwarfed by parts of the Andes. I think that is a fair comment. Before this trip I still thought that NZ's south island had some of the most beautiful countryside that I had seen anywhere. But the northern Andes, the glaciars in Argentina, the lake district by Barriloche (Arg.) and Torres del Paine, to name a few, are places that put NZ well in the shade. The advantage of NZ is that most of it is slightly more accessible to your average punter.

NZ been wonderful, especially the south island, which was helped in part by the arrival of summer. It has been a slightly different type of trip from the earlier Latin part. Our time in the US was really like a holiday. Our time here has been a bit like an extended holiday. Having a car makes life easier and there is none of the sense of adventure that there is travelling through remote regions of South America. It has been very enjoyable, but not quite as exciting in many ways as the first 7 months. One of the surprises here has been the need to be a little more organised than we had been for most of South America. We were used to making few arrangements ahead, never booking accommodation in advance and only occasionally booking buses more than the day before. But here, because it is summer and peak season, we have found some places we wanted to stay have been booked a couple of days ahead, and the whole thing requires a little more thought as to where we may be 5 days hence.

You have to love a country that has a tourist attraction called Sheep World. An attraction that showcases farming methods, different breeds of sheep and has shearing and dog shows. There are also adverts on the TV for tractors! NZ does seem at times very parochial. But it can be quite enchanting.

I did once say, in 2000, that if I came to this part of the world again I would go to NZ and not to Australia. I think that still remains my view, but with a friends in Oz we can't come all this way and not drop in! So off to Oz next.

Godzone

Location: Fox Glaciar, South Island, New Zealand

As in "God's own country". We have been quite busy for the last month, hence no updates here. After Auckland we went to the Bay of Islands, Rotorua, Waitomo, walk the Tongariro Crossing, kayak down the Whanganui river, Hawkes Bay and down to Wellington. We have had about 10 days on the South Island so far, but details of that will have to wait for another day.

Auckland is, to the Kiwis, a large megatropolis. But of course it isn't really. Nice enough for a few days but little to hold us there. We did catch a comedy gig on a Saturday night, a change from the entertainment options available nearly everywhere else we have been. We also went to an aquarium that included an Antarctic exhibition but, frankly, it was not as good as the real thing.

Christmas was spent in Paihia, in the Bay of Islands, north of Auckland. A beautifully scenic part of the world, and the town itself was very small and picturesque. It was a slightly different Christmas but we did still manage to go to a carol concert on Xmas eve and have a few drinks on the day itself. Unfortunately, after we had gone to a nice hotel for Christmas lunch, some oysters disagreed with Phillippa which rather put a dampener on the afternoon! But she was fine by the next day. We went diving for 1 day out at Poor Knights islands. This was certainly different from the tropical places where we have done most of our previous dives, and more interesting for that. It was however very cold, with the water temperature about 13C.

Rotorua is known for the thermal waters and hot springs, as well as being one of the main centres of Maori culture. We had a couple of good days, seeing some amazing natural phenomena, most remarkable of which were some brightly coloured mineral pools.

The weather for the first couple of weeks was pretty miserable, a pattern that has only recently been broken by some sporadic sunshine. The media are speculating as to whether this is indeed the worst summer since the 1940s. It has been cold and very wet. The odd good day has sometimes coincided with us doing something, the rain being on travel days. But even so, it has been a little depressing at times.

The heavy rain in Waitomo almost prevented us from going caving so see some glow worms, all the trips that were planned for after ours were cancelled. Swimming through underground rivers was fun, certainly different, but not un-missable.

From here we travelled south to National Park, the main point of which was to walk the Tongariro Crossing, said by some to be NZ's best 1-day walk. Heavy rain stopped us going on New Year's Day, which was the original plan. When we finally did go, on Jan 2, the visibility was about 50m for the first half of the walk, meaning that we couldn't see the craters or the lakes. The wind was howling around us and with a persistent fine drizzle it was a fairly long slog up to the top. Once we started down the other side the weather lifted and we had marvellous views across to Lake Taupo. But it was too late for us to see the more spectactular views that were by now behind us.

We'd been told that kayaking down the Whanganui river was something we shouldn't miss, so that was the next stop. 3 days paddling down a river that runs through some amazing landscapes. There were quite a few other people out and about, both on the river and at the campsites, (it is high season now), but that didn't really spoil it too much for us since we were able to get away from the crowds most of the time. Kayaking was "interesting" to start with, until we changed round to better balance the weight in the boat. The last night we went beyond where most peopl;e had headed for and were rewarded with a campsite that overlooked a bend in the river and where there were no other people, (until a bloke turned up a couple of hours later). Very tranquil, only slightly marred by the presence of thousands of sandflies, and this the only time when we had forgotten to take the insect repellant. They are far, far worse than mozzies. A lesson learned there.

We didn't stop in Taupo on the way to Havelock North, in the Hawkes Bay wine region. Another day of visiting vineyards (after quite a few in South America) and sampling their wares was very enjoyable and Havelock North and Hastings are great town to relax in: good food, good wine, good countryside. We treated ourselves to lunch (a very long lunch) at the Black Barn vineyard and had a table outside overlooking the vines. Wonderful.

Then down to Wellington, which seemed like a nice enough town, I can see why some of our friends had decided to live here rather than Auckland when they lived in NZ.

Apart from the weather, which has been shocking, we have had a great time here so far. Having only been to the South Island the first time I came to NZ it has been interesting to see some of the rest of the country that I missed out on. Having said that, most people believe the South Island to be a better holiday than the North so we have a lot to look forward to.

Updates, and emails in general, seem harder to put together here than in South America. The PCs invariably have more problems and crash more frequently in NZ than they did in La Paz, or even in some tiny towns in the middle of nowhere. So that is partly the reason for the lack of communication. In addition, gone are the days when we could pay 15 pence an hour and so frivolously while away hours writing up a blog rather than doing research for the next part of the trip. But keep reading, because there will be a South Island post to follow...

Across the Pacific

Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Since the last post we have been to LA for a long weekend and had 2 weeks in Hawai'i, split between Maui and Kauai.

City of Angels
Our few days in LA were notable for a few reasons, but mainly because it was the first time we had seen a friendly face in 7 months. We stayed with a friend from IC who I used to play squash with, and he let us borrow his car to get around and see much more than we would have otherwise been able to. He's got a great apartment in Century City, right on the border with Beverley Hills, which is the next road over. From the 16th floor we could see the Hollywood sign in the distance, the downtown skyscrapers, and almost see the sea at Santa Monica.

It was a little bizarre to be so firmly back in the developed world, with an almost overwhelming choice of food, with everything coming in portion sizes undreamt of in much of Latin America. It was also a good opportunity to go shopping, and with the dollar being so weak at present it was even better value than normal. So we are now almost back up to being as fully equipped as we were before we donated some of our stuff to the needy of Peru.

Many thanks again to JC for hosting us for a few days. Phillippa had previously vowed never to go to LA but I think even she enjoyed our time there. Maybe LA gets a bad press, we only saw a very small corner of it, and quite a nice corner too, but it seemed great to us. The locals were complaining about the weather being too cold for winter, it was getting down to about 60F or 15C.

Hawai'i
The locals were also complaining about the cold in Hawaii, where it was a chilly 58F. Some people are just spoiled. Having managed to plot a route that avoids winter for most of the time we are away, these 2 weeks in the US are winter for this year. I could get used to winters like this.

The mountains in Hawaii have to be seen to be believed, especially on Kauai, where parts of Jurassic Park were filmed. The north west coast is stunning, with razor sharp ridges in the volcanic rock that are covered by very dense, lush green vegetation. The slopes are so steep it almost defies logic as to how trees can grow here. You can't get such intense green views without there being a lot of water to support them. One of the mountains on Kauai is the wettest place on earth, with about 460 inches, or about 10m of rain a year. That is more than Manchester and Bristol combined. Luckily our time there was mainly dry, so the walking we did wasn't spoiled by torrential downpours.

The only way to see parts of Kauai are from the air, and there are many helicopter operaotrs offering tours. You can't come this far and not do a helicopter trip, it really was fantastic, one of the more memorable things we have done. The company we went with flies with the doors off, one of the reasons for choosing them, and hanging out of a helicopter whilst passing over such unique countryside was great fun.

The snorkelling on both islands is also pretty good, though the visibility was a bit poor. We didn't dive there, maybe we should have done. The other water sport that Hawaii is known for is surfing, and we couldn't miss a chance for a lesson. It isn't actually as hard as people say, and within 10mins we were both standing up riding (admittedly small) waves to the shore. That's not to say that we didn't have some spectacular wipe outs too. But this early success was a slight cheat, we had a push into the wave from the instructor. When he left us and we had to paddle towards shore, with the waves, it became much harder!

The following day the north shoes of all the islands had their best waves for the last 6 years, predictions were for 50ft (15m) waves, so we headed up there. Not to surf, just as spectators. It turned out that the waves never hit those predicted 15m levels, but they were about 10-12m, as some nutters were out there making the most of it.

It was like having a holiday within a holiday. One place we stayed in on Maui had a garden that went down to the sea and a hot tub, where we sat one evening under the stars and palm trees with a bottle of bubbly. We also managed to do a fair bit of self-catering, and having the freedom to lounge around and cook for ourselves was very welcome.

We could have quite easily spent all of our time solely on either Maui or Kauai, but it is so unlikely that we will ever be back it made sense to see as much as possible.

And so now we are in NZ (after one night in Sydney). Before we went to South America it was hard to have any pre-conceived notions of what awaited us, but everyone as seen images on the US and Australia, and they didn't disappoint by not living up to stereotypes. We saw some huge people in the US, and only a British sense of propriety stopped me from taking what would have been a classic photo of a monstrous women tucking into a Whopper at Burger King. When driving around LA we were surrounded by vehicles so large and inappropriate for city use that even a Chelsea Mum would be reluctant to drive one on the SW3 school run. Then on the Qantas flight to Sydney from Honolulu the comedy channel had Dame Edna, the film channel had Guy Pearce and the music channel had a Kylie concert! Reassuring in its predictability.

People say that the Aussies and Kiwis are very friendly, and the reception we received at US immigration was entirely less welcoming than that we got from either of our Antipodean colonies. This despite the US officials having a charter that promises that you will be greeted with courtesy etc etc, and not just abruptly, almost rudely, asked for a photo and prints from both index fingers. It is also more relaxing now we have got to NZ, after Latin America and the US, since all our language problems are now behind us.

Happy Christmas to you all, wherever you may be. We will be in the Bay of Islands next weekend.

Mid Year Review

Location: Century City, Los Angeles, USA

A mid-year review. It`s time for a catch-up, for us to circle back and discuss some of the highlights of the year to date. So let`s run this up the flagpole and see if it takes shape.

Of course, we have been going for about 7 months now, but all good mid-year reviews occur late. In keeping with the usual review process, this is long on rhetoric and short on substance. It promises much but delivers little. In fact it doesn`t really contain any sensible analysis of our trip so far, instead it just concentrates on the trivial whilst overlooking the important. Those of you in the working world may be familiar with the theoretical idea of a review being a two-way conversation, a discussion. But that theory never holds true, so to conform to the "real world" review template this is a soliloquy. The only slight diversion from the normal review procedure is that the person doing the review does in fact know what has gone on in the relevant review period.

I had, at the start of the year, promised myself an increase in budget mid-year. This was to be something to look forward to. However, with startling capriciousness, I then decided that the increase I would award myself would be 0%. But this should not be looked upon as not having reviewed monetary matters, oh no, there was a review, as I had promised myself. The fact that the outcome was a rise of 0% does not mean that I was not given all that I was promised (a review), and so cannot be disappointed, feel aggrieved or misled by duplicitous claims made at the start of the year. Funny how this year is so similar to previous years.

After 6 months I have so far resisted the urge to

• grow my hair out and get either dreads or braids
• grow some ridiculous facial hair styled on Bob Geldof or Prince°
• buy, regardless of whether I can play it or not, a guitar to carry round with me...
• ... or some bongos
• get some tie-die clothes, or some indigenous Andean style clothes, which don`t fit because they don`t come in big Western sizes
• buy some cheap jewellry, made from a bit of wire by some hippie
• get a "necklace" made from leather with a wooden pendant
• quit travelling and set up my own crap jewellry business on some part of the Gringo trail near Titicaca, and just like, really get in tune with the Inca vibes of the place, coz, like, you know, this is where the Sun-God was kinda born, yeahh? Coool, man. Diggit.
• get one or more tatty bracelets made from multi-coloured fabric
• get an ankle bracelet
• renounce my UK nationality and claim, pretentiously, to be a citizen of the world*

° Indolence does not count

* Although all the people who have renounced their nationality have been either from the USA or France, so perhaps they had compelling reasons to do so.

On a slightly more serious note, what has it been like to be on the road for 6 months? (Those of you, many of you, who have done something similar can probably stop reading here.)

Every day is the same, yet every day is very different. There isn´t the routine of weekends to break up the pattern of the passing days, without this discipline every day really is the same, and it doesn´t matter what day of the week it is. But, of course, having seen and done so much no two days are the same.

It is actually surprisingly tiring all this travelling lark. That will not spark much sympathy with those of you at your desks by 7:30am 5 days a week, and it is not intended to do so. Early morning buses, overnight buses, cold hotels, poor sleep etc all take their toll. Some of the long distance buses in Argentina have been comfortable enough to get some sleep on but most buses elsewhere are designed for midgets. (Actually, so is Eurostar, but being based on the TGV it was probably designed by a Frenchman of Napoleonic stature.)

And with every day being the same we have found that we end up being busy for up to 3 weeks at a time, with no time to rest, with no break. Whilst this does maximise the stuff we can do, it is important every now and then to have a day or two of doing very little.

Tourism fatigue can also sometimes be a problem. In the Northern Andes I did find I was getting less interest in each Inca and pre-Inca site, each museum seemed to be the same (in fact in many cases they were), and at times it was hard to generate any enthusiasm for some of the places we went to. But this is rare, and has only really happened once or twice in the Andes.

In most places we have felt reasonably safe, with a few exceptions such a Rio. There have only been a few stressful incidents or locations. Most of the locals we have met have been very helpful, in particular in Argentina.

Costs It has gradually got more expensive as the months have passed. Bolivia was incredibly cheap; Peru and Ecuador a little less so, Paraguay was surprisingly expensive given there are few tourists, Brazil and Uruguay were (relatively) pricey, and Argentina, although not cheap, has standards higher than the rest, so in terms of value for money is way ahead of most places. For the most part rooms have cost from US$10 to US$16 per night, between us, for a double room with bathroom. We haven`t had too many bad hotel experiences, but we are not trawling through the very bottom price bracket so I wouldn`t expect too. Buses in the Northern Andean countries were approximately US$1 per hour of travel, about double that in Chile and Argentina, more for the better class of bus. It is generally possible to eat either very cheaply (meal for under US$1) anywhere, or pay right up to European proces in the major cities.

So have I missed the UK? Well, no not really. There have been a few weddings and babies that we have missed, which would be the case whenever you go away for a year, and that has been disappointing. But although there are things going on at home that it would be better to be a part of, and there are people who I´d like to see that was always going to be a downside. And there is nothing that can be done about it, so no point in thinking about it too much.

Too much travelling? We have spent what probably by now amounts to weeks on buses. We have not spent long periods in any one place at a time, seldom more than 5 days and usually 2-3 days. Eternally living from a rucksack is not as bad as some would think. Some of the places we have stayed put for a few days, where we have almost felt settled (I´m thinking of Ilha Grande in particular), have been like mini-holidays in themselves. We spent a week in Ushuaia before heading to Antarctica, but that was less of a mini-break since there is not really enough to fill a week. The variety certainly prevents any ideas of wanting to go back to the UK. Besides, 12 hours on a bus is still better than 12 hours in the office.

The music in the Andes is certainly something that I will remember, though not always fondly. A lot of their pop songs are instrumentals and sound like they were composed by GCSE music students. Repeatitive ditties that would have been rejected by the makers of Playstation arcade games. And South America is the only continent that still plays Phil Collins a lot. And Rick Astley. Say no more.

Health. So far so good... well not too bad anyway. A nasty high fever and cold sweats for a few days in Peru, that almost stopped me going up in the plane to see the Nasca lines. Some dodgy food that left me throwing up outside one of Peru´s most important churches, in Cusco. But other than the old sniffle there have been no problems. We managed to avoid the outbreak of bubonic plague in Ecuador (near to Cotopaxi). There were signs on one of the buses in Argentina to only use the onboard toilet when aboslutely necessary, to help prevent the spread of cholera. But we needed no such extra encouragement to avoid the facilities during a long, overnight journey. A lot of walking has taken its toll on one of my knees, the reoccurence of a running injury, but less severe, so not too serious.

We have, so far, met a lot of very interesting people. One French bloke was 71, had major abdominal surgery 3 years ago and was travelling around for 2 months with his trusty guide book, in a similar way to us. We also met an English chap in Ushuaia who was probably well into his 70s and could barely walk! We walked him home on 2 evenings, having bumped into him in town. The 5 minute walk home took more than half an hour, and we missed most of the second half of Argentina v Venezuela! He has been travelling overland from Brazil, 3 weeks down the Amazon, overland through the jungle in Peru then all the way down to the continent`s southern end. He doesn`t speak any Spanish and can`t seem to carry anything more than a small bag with a bottle of water! How has he managed it!

There is hope for us all yet.

The food has been generally good and interesting, but the days of bland and often cold food in Bolivia are only a distant memory. The meat in Argentina has been just as good as people say, not only the big thick steaks but some excellent lamb in Patagonia.

Books are in some ways valuable currency in these parts. With many hours to kill there is often little to do other than read, which is fine. But the choice of what you read is sometimes very limited, with swapping books at hostals the main way to replace those one has read. So as soon as something vaguely interesting appears you have to grab it while you can, even if you still have a couple waiting to be read. We have bought a few books here and there, definitely making a net contribution to the quality available in the hostals of South America. I even read what is the worst book I have ever read (The Posession of Joel Delaney). But for 20p in a bookshop in Montevideo it was still reasonable value and filled a bus journey. You won`t be able to buy it, even for curiosity, since it has been out of print for at least 20 years. No surprise there.

I could certainly get used to this nomadic lifestyle. And there are plenty more adventures to come.

Photos

Location: Los Angeles, USA

I have managed to put some more photos up on the web.

They nearly all date from the early days, Ecuador and Peru, since from 3rd July until a couple of days ago we haven't had digital cameras.

The main address for all the albums is
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/andell_n/my_photos

There are now the following individual albums

• Galapagos. There were some here before but there are a few more here now
• Huayhuash. This covers the fateful trek in the Cordillera Blanca, Northern Peru
• Mindo. A town in a cloud forest a little north of Quito. One of the main attractions here was the huge number of butterflies.
• Northern Peru. Trujillo, which served as a base for trips to the pyramids of the sun and moon, Chan Chan and ruins of other pre-Inca cultures
• Other Ecuador. The jungle near to Coca and a couple from Riobamba in the south
• A few from the last couple of days we have spent here in LA.

A few comments on the butterflies. This one has wings that are about the size of a thumb nail. This one is a similar size with transparent wings. The open wings on this one are about the size of an open palm of your hand. There is also another butterfly shot here taken in the jungle in Northern Ecuador.

Some of them are a bit smaller than others, it was a hit and miss affair when reducing the file size to something more manageable, but most seem OK. Hopefully from now on we will be able to add a few more as we go.

The White Continent

Location: Punta Arenas, southern Chile

The adventure is over and we have stepped onto the 7th continent to complete the set. It`s a long way from South America but being here represented an opportunity not to be missed since it is a lot further from Europe!

We spent 10 nights on board the M/V Ushuaia, owned an operated by Antarpply. It takes a couple of days to cross the Drake Passage (named after Sir Francis), which has some of the roughest seas in the world. Luckily for us it was very calm on the way over, not quite like the Med but certainly not what could be termed as angry seas. More like midly displeased. There were a few people who suffered from sea sickness, including Phillippa, and there really is no respite for the 2 days it takes to get near to the South Shetlands, where the water is calmer. There is nothing to look at for 2 days, so there was a lot of sitting around playing cards and backgammon.

In the afternoon of day 3 we had our first landing. Although the sea looked quite calm from the safety of a medium sized ship, once settled in a small Zodiac landing craft it appears slightly different. The weather was grey, strong winds, a light but horizontal rain. By the time we got to the beach we were all pretty wet, then stepping off into water that was deeper than the wellies we had been given ensured one cold wet foot, which then started to become painfully cold over the next 45 minutes. We got soaked on the way back too and it was looking like this would be a regular feature of the 2 daily landings. They told us to bring waterproofs, but the type of stuff you would wear for trekking in the rain is not quite up to having bucketfuls of cold water poured over you. Proper sea-going wet weather gear is needed. But it was too late for that discovery to be useful.

Weather
Generally cloudy, cold (between 0ºC and 3ºC), windy, occasional rain and sometimes heavy snow that didn`t really fall so much as move horizontally. No sunshine or blue sky, but perhaps that is not to be expected near to one of the most desolate and Godforsaken places on earth.

So what wildlife did we see?

• Lots of penguins (Adelie, chinstrap and Gentoo but sadly no king or emperor).
• Quite a few seals (Weddell, fur, elephant)
• A variety of other bird life (different types of albatrosses, petrels, gulls)
• Grass. Actually more interesting than it sounds. There are only two plants that live in Antarctica, this one being related to oats
• Minke whales, though not many and from a distance
• Orcas, briefly

P..p..p..pick up a penguin
The groups of penguins were huge. Thousands of them. I`ve seen penguins here in Argentina, in the Galapagos and near to Cape Town, but somehow it seem more authentic in Antarctica, in a blizzard with those facing you blending in to the background snow. Everywhere you look the slopes were crowded with colonies. It is nesting season so many are lying down to incubate eggs. We´ve seen lots of different types of behaviour: picking up stones to offer to potential mates (often stolen from the next door neighbour); building nests; calling out for mates, neck outstretched up to the sky; waddling along in lines along their "paths", like obedient school children on an outing; struggling up quite steep slopes and sliding back down on their tummies; fishing in the sea, often leaping out of the water, and with their black and white colouring they look like smaller versions of the dolphins we saw a month ago. Fascinating creatures that you can never tire of watching. Just as in the Galapagos, they are not too bothered by the presence of humans. Showing some signs of curiosity but then they quickly decided that we were not interesting enough to be bothered about. We were priviledged to see a group of about 12 walk right past us as we waited patiently for them. Another National Geographic documentary moment.

In many ways the scenery and geography of the region is more interesting than the wildlife. It is incredibly bleak and inhospitable. The South Shetland islands (just off the north tip of the peninsula) are part of the same string of mountains as the Andes, as is South Georgia. Black volcanic beaches and hills are partly covered by now. Very dramatic.

A dip in the Antarctic sea
Some of the islands are volcanic and one, Deception Island, is an active volcano. The remnants of a Norwegian whaling station, abandoned in the 1930s, can be seen all along the beach, including about 7 huge tanks used for boiling up the blubber. It then became a British base, and was finally abandoned in the late 60s after 2 eruptions destroyed lots of the area. A further erupton and mud slide buried lots of the buildings that had remained to that point. But the active (though dormant) nature of the volcano means that the groud is warm. Not on the surface where the weather makes sure that the beach is still cold, though with some steam rising form puddles, but dig down a bit and it is quite hot. So the staff dug a shallow hole, the sea filled it and then we were ready for a bath.

Apparently it feels warmer if you plunge into the sea first. So after stripping down I ran into the sea (about 2ºCentigrade), plunged in, a quick splash around and then headed back to the beach to get in the warm water. About 10 seconds is more than enough. I`m not sure how long you would last in water that cold, without protective gear but it can`t be very long. Very invigorating. Getting in was easy, but getting out and drying off when the air temperature is near to zero plus a strong wind is more of a problem.

Huge Icebergs
After a day of sailing we passed one or two icebergs. Much much bgger than those we had seen in the glaciar national parks. These were like small buildings. Over the next few days, as we headed further south, we saw bergs the size of very large office blocks. An amazing sight. Whilst making progress down the west side of the peninsula we saw more and more, everywhere you looked were huge masses of pale azure ice. We couldn`t land on the continent where we had planned to due to ice conditions. Not bergs but smaller flat pieces, often no more than a few metres across and maybe 0.5-1 metre deep. The wind had blown all these into ice flows. To start with there were clear gaps where the sea was still visible, but the further we progressed the more dense the ice became, until we had to turn back. At this point is seemed unlikely that we would manage to get onto the mainland itself, this was hugely disapponting.

So we had to go North again, and went through a channel at the very north of the peninsula. Here there were icebergs everywhere, a tough navigation, but very beautiful. I hadn`t expected to see quite ths density of icebergs. This took us towards the Weddell sea, where we saw pieces of the Ronne ice shelf that had broken off. We passed some real monsters, once was over a mile wide and about 80m high. It is almost too big to take in, and I`m sure the photos will not do it justice.

We did eventually get on to the peninsula, mainland Antarctica, at an Argentine base in Hope Bay. This base is not a hot-bed of scientific research, it has mainly political purposes. Should Antarctica ever be divided up, after the current treaty expires, various countries have varioues claims on the land. The peninsula is subject to claims from Argentina, Chile & the UK. For some reason the Argies believe that if the land is ever apportioned then having had 40 people (including children) living there somehow increases the strength of their claim. They aparently even flew in a woman who was 7 months pregnant so that she could give birth on Antarctica, (which would be quite cool to have on your passport as place of birth). It was very interesting to have a tour of their facilities and speak to the locals. The kids in the school were particularly friendly, it must be a fairly odd existence for them. Though the house we went into had a PC linked to the web, a playstation and TV/video, so when very long winter nights prevent them from playing outside they are entertained. In just the same way that, at home, the current crop of lazy kids slouch in front of their computer games, doing little more than waiting for the onset of childhhod diabetes.

It was a great trip overall. The highs in Antarctica were probably more memorable than those we experienced in Galapagos, in particular the massive icebergs, ice flows and the penguins. But overall I still think that the Galapagos remains the most amazing part of the trip so far.

Today, 29 Nov, is our last full day in South America, for tomorrow we are off to the US. It has been a fantastic 7 months and it is a shame to be leaving. But all good things come to an end and there are still many exciting places left to visit.

From the Centre of the Earth to the End of the World

Location: Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

We are nearing the end of the South American part of the Odyssey. Having very near to the southern mosdt part of continental South America (Punta Arenas, Chile) last week, we are no in the southern most city in the world, Ushuaia. So now that the trip south has come to an inevitable impasse, where do we go from here? Answers below...

After the trek in Torres del Paine we had a day or two doing very little in the small town of Puerto Natales, situated by fjords with mountains behind. Very attractive. We then swapped that for Punta Arenas, overlooking the Magellan Straits, the water that separates the continent from the islands to the south. Not a great place to spend any length of time. One interesting museum on the indigenous culture and heritage of the region, and many stuffed animals from Patagonia, but the town itself presents no compelling reason for a visit.

It was a long day from there to Ushuaia. Have a look on your atlas. It doesn´t look that far does it? But with a very slow border crossing and the bus company´s penchant for stopping for coffee breaks at almost every available opportunity it was a very long day: about 12.5 hours to reach the most austral city in the world. There is a town on the other side of the Beagle Channel, (named after Darwin´s ship, or really Robert Fitz Roy´s ship since he was the captain), a small Chilean settlement, but it is too small to lay claim to any title.

Although it is the most southern city it is not actually as far south as you may have thought, about the same south as Northern England is north. But since it is spring that means it is getting dark around 10pm, light at 5am, and it has even been about 20°C on a couple of days this week. So how is the weather in London?

One day was spent in the National Park, sadly it was a grey drizzly day (even worse was that the day each side was glorious sunshine), so the views were limited. Getting fairly wet for a few hours is also never much fun, even had it been good weather it would not have compared favourably to the other places we have been walking in recent weeks (but almost nowhere would).

There is one excellent museum in Ushuaia, housed in the old prison. Only a small section on the Falkland´s conflict though, which is surprising since the town has close associations with the war of 1982. There are a couple of monuments on the waterfront, including one that proclaims (Terminator fashion) "we will back". It is not clear whether they mean with the Navy or with diplomats. Quite a few cars and hostals have stickers from 2002 commemorating the 20 year anniversary, "Malvinas: Tierra del Fuego is waiting for you!". Interestingly the 2004 equivalent sticker does not say that they are still waiting.

So where are we going next? Well, we are going to continue to head south. Next stop is Antarctica for a 10 day expedition (18-28 Nov). We just hope that that Drake´s Passage, the 1,000km of sea between here and the Antarctic peninsula is not too rough, since it is known to be some of the roughest seas in the world. But we´ve just been to the chemist to stock up on sea sickness pills, so fingers crossed all will be fine, or at least bearable.

So check back here in about 2 weeks time (very end of Nov) to find out all about this very exciting side trip. It was not on the original itinerary, but this is far too good an opportunity to miss, so we have pushed back some of our flights by a bit to accomodate it. Also, once we return from Antarctica, details of where we are going once we leave South America, which will be in early December.

Heading for home

Location: Puerto Natales, Southern Chile

Heading for home indeed, though only in the sense that we have just passed the 6 month mark and so are nearer to Heathrow arrivals than we are to the departure gate. So although we have turned the corner and are now on the back 9, as it were, there are still a lot of interesting places yet to come.

We´ve been walking again, this time in Torres del Paine, just over the border from the Argentinian National Parks featured in the last post. The huge granite towers here are similar to those that can be seen in Fitz Roy. But we didn´t see them in Fitz Roy, due to bad weather. When we crossed the border into Chile the weather turned from sunshine to heavy rain and black skies.

Luckily by the time we got to the Park the following day it was sunny and, out of the shade, quite warm. We trekked for 5 days, every day we had minimal cloud, glorious sunshine and perfect views. (The day we got back to town it tanked down with rain again, so we were extremely fortunate with the conditions.)

There are 2 main treks, a W circuit, up 3 valleys, and a circular walk. The round trek cannot be done without lugging all your own stuff with you, and being slightly half-hearted about this camping lark, this was not for us. The W is the more common trek since there are refugios on the way round, providing decent shelter and food. To compromise between the full on camping, carry all the food and stoves, and the deluxe version involving staying in beds in rooms, we camped, but hired everything at each point. Meaning we didn´t have to lug it around all day.

Chile is a bit more expensive than most of its neighbours, but the cost for a tent, 2 mats and 2 sleeping bags was about US$35-40 between us. Much more than any hotel we have stayed in during the last 6 months! But the locations here are incomparable.

Over the course of 5 days we walked for 30 hours, including one long day of about 9.5hrs. Not as challenging as the Huayhuash trek in July, and the only other people we saw were tourists! But a fairly hard few days nonetheless.

The scenery verges on indescribable, especially when it is untainted by cloud or rain. The Torres themselves were mightily impressive, imperiously dwarfing the surrounding region. We saw a few more glaciars, the most readily visible being the Grey Glaciar, though none compare to the Perito Moreno. We walked in forests, besides glacial lakes, through flat grassy meadows, over huge boulders and moraine. Very varied really.

It is certainly a great time to be here in the South of Patagonia, spring is definitely in the air. Budding trees robed in new, bright green spring colours. A host of birds chirruping from the sidelines as we walked. Mating pairs of geese quietly courting. Hopefully the photos will do justice to the vivid greens against the backdrop of bright blue sky with white snow-capped mountains, with bright red flowering trees in the foreground. But I don´t want too much talk of spring to depress those of you who are heading into winter, having just put the clocks back!

It was certainly one of the best walks we have done, but that was due in a large part to the sunshine. Had it been wet and rainy, with poor views, then we would cetainly not have enjoyed it as much! It was pretty windy on a few days, one in particular was probably the strongest winds I have ever been in. And we were camping in it! We also met some great people, in particular a retired Headmaster of a primary school in Tower Hamlets, an Aussie couple, and a couple of very affable Swedes, who, of course, spoke better English than most people who live near our flat in London.

Just before finishing the W-circuit we heard a rumour that Dubya had won the election, though it was not clear if that was an outright victory or before any legal challenges by the Kerry team Only when we got back to town did we have confirmation of the result. Oh well.

Wildlife in black and white

Location: El Calafate, Southern Patagonia, Argentina (though not far from Chile)

Puerto Madryn: whales, penguins, dolphins, elephant seals, celebrity spotting and a cup of tea.
Barriloche: glorious lakes and snow capped mountains
El Calafate: stunning glaciars
Chaltén: trekking in rugged mountains near to Fitz Roy

After Buenos Aires we went to Puerto Madryn, on the Atlantic coast, the starting point for trips to Peninsula Valdez. This is one of the most diverse and important areas for marine life on the continent, and now is the right time of year to see it.

The first trip was to the peninsula itself, with the main draw being whales. But before we got to see them we stopped at a couple of places on the way. Elephant seals are massive, by any measure. Up to 4 tonnes. So named because of a trunk like nose, there is a real resemblance to elephants especially when they yawn. It is an easy life being a dominant, male elephant seal. Very little activity, chasing off the odd intruding male whilst watching over your harem of 20+ females. With such body weight it is hard to be elegant when shuffling to and from the sea. Normally they require a pause, maybe to get their breath back, after about 10 "paces". Invariably they just then slump forward as if it has all suddenly become a little too much effort. We´ve also seen some who just can´t be bothered to lift their head when moving and have ploughed a furrow in the shingle with their face.

At the moment there are pups in the groups on the shore, they are suckled for about 40 days and then left to fend for themselves. Of course this is nature, not a controlled, zoo-environment, and there was a group of giant petrels picking at the floating corpse of a pup, as it was rolled around by the surf.

The next stop was to see a small colony of Magellan penguins, but more of them later.

Then is was the whales, the main point of the day. Southern right whales are found in the New Gulf, the southern gulf of the Peninsula Valdez, since this is a sheltered area that is suitable for giving birth. There are now no more mating groups, which, opposite to the elephant seals, have one female and many males all jostling for position. But there are calves, and there were amazing to watch. There were a huge number of whales in the gulf, almost wherever you look on the horizon you can see tails silouhetted against the sky. I wasn´t quite sure just how close the boat would be able to get to them. The answer is very close. They were swimming right beside us and under us. The females are about 12-15m long, and it is a little surreal to see an animal that large. Even the calves are probably 7-8m long.

On the drive around the peninsula we even saw some armadillos. The last time I saw one of those it was on my plate in Guatemala!

The following day we had a trip south to the largest easily accessible colony of Magellan penguins, larger colonies presumably exist in Antarctica.

There was not a huge amount of movement from them, since they are currently incubating eggs. The odd one or two was heading off to, or back from, the sea, to swap duties with his/her partner. When watching penguins it is hard not to think of them as little people. They are slightly comical and ungainly when walking anyway. But watching them stagger down a shingle beach was like watching minature, drunk aristocrats tottering home after a party, like something out of a novel by Evelyn Waugh.

They have nests a long way from the beach, and 1km is a long waddle to get home after going out for lunch. They dig holes to keep the eggs partially protected, from the sun mainly since there is always one of them on guard. The coast was very beautiful, with clear blue water lapping at rugged shorelines.

Also that day we had a trip out to see dolphins. Small, black and white ones that look as though they are the product of a genetic experiment to breed orcas with dolphins. They playfully followed the boat around, we were without company for no longer than a few minutes.

Previously, in Northern Argentina, we had passed through a place called Tafi del Valle, which is not one of Argentina`s Welsh colonies. But on the way back to Puerto Madryn we did stop at such a Welsh village, Gaiman. In the late part of the 19th century, encouraged by economic aid from the Argentine government, they settled in Patagonia. They may have been fleeing to ensure the survival of their culture, after being oppressed by the English, or it could be that they were trying to avoid paying taxes. I suppose which version you believe depends on where you natural sympathies lie.

One of the gastronomic highlights of the last few months was to be found in a little Welsh tea shop, owed and run by the grand-daughter of one of the original settlers. A decent cup of tea, the first since London, and a very generous plateful of home made cakes, plus scones, home made bread and home made jam. Just lke the Sunday evenings from my childhood, and just as good. So we stuffed our faces and dranks pints of tea until sated. Very memorable, and enough of a reminder to make us miss England a little.

Another long couple of bus journeys got us to Barriloche, a sweet little town on the shores of a beautiful lake, with views all the way across to the mountains on the opposite shore. Or that is what it is like on a good day. When we arrived it was snowing, heavy, thick, wet snow. Very un spring-like. Fortunately the next couple of days we had some great weather, clear skies and sun (though still bitterly cold). There is some great walking to be done round here, there are many lakes all surrounded by snowy mountains. Forests reach down to the water, but you can get above the tree line, and on one day the snow line, for some amazing views. The mountains are littered with huge chunks of granite, left by the last ice age. Many are the size of large cars, some the size of small houses. This is some of the most amazing mountain scenery we have seen.

We then hopped on a plane to get to El Calafate, 2hr flight rather than sit on a bus for about 36 hours. This is glaciar country, and the National Park hosts more than 300 of them. The most accessible and commonly visited is Perito Moreno. We have seen glaciars in Peru, and even skied on them in Europe, but this was a "classic" glaciar. A huge sheet of ice, about 5km by 30km, stretching down to a lake, with the front face periodically falling into the lake. The upper surface is about 50-70m above the water, and the ice reaces down to the lake bed, 120-170m below the surface. The sound of massive pieces of ice shearing from the face is so much louder than you would expect. And the splash has to be seen to be believed. This is the reason why this glaciar is a tourist destination: you are almost guaranteed to see large pieces falling from it. We saw some massive lumps split off and just happening to be looking the right way at the time. So much of the time you are gazing at part of it, and by the time you hear the sound, or notice some movement you have missed it fall and just see the huge wave spread out from the base. The compacted ice refracts light is such a way to give it that pale, yet vivid blue hue. The lakes formed by glacial flows have a suspension of fine matter in them, and so appear a milky turquoise, glorious on a sunny day. This glaciar is one of the best things we have seen in the last 5 months, and that is an accolade that is becoming harder to bestow as we progress.

El Calafate is also the starting point for trips to Chaltén and the surrounding mountains. This town only exists to provide for trekkers and climbers, and the location is amazing. The huge granite towers of Fitz Roy dominate the skyline. The area here is much more rugged than in Bariloche, not quite as picture-postcard, but impressive. We had a couple of good walks of 5 & 7hrs, but the snow blowing down from the mountains meant that the jagged peaks were not visible. That is until the last day, when we saw them when leaving on an early bus. A bit disappointing to have been thwarted by the weather, but we have been lucky elsewhere, so you have to take the rough with the smooth. They say you can get all four seasons in one day here (much like Centre Court in that respect then) but we only really saw the tail end of spring.

Now that we are quite far south it has been nice to have some longer evenings, which we missed during the European summer since we were too near to the equator. Next stop is over the border in Chile.

El Rio Plata

Location: Colonia del Sacremento, Uruguay

A bit more on Buenos Aires, another World Cup Qualifier, and a trip to Montevideo in Uruguay.

Buenos Aires
I said before that BsAs has a very European feel to it, it`s what all people who come here say. But it also has a latin side that sits incongruously on top. In all the big cities we have been to we have seen a lot of poverty. But it is slightly less expected here, where there are broad, sweeping, tree-lined avenues that lead from one grand building to another; where there are designer shops, with all the major labels represented; where people dress well; where most of the city is not dirty and crowded; where there are smart cafes and smart cars; where there is a decent and clean underground system.

In a city like La Paz, where there a markets on the pavements and there is a clear "developing world" aspect to the city, you expect to see a lot of poverty. And you do. So it has been quite shocking to see the after effects of the peso crisis of a few years ago. In some parts of the city, near to the hotels and shopping areas, there are many people pushing shopping trolleys filled with what appear to be worthless bits of rubbish. Every pile of bin bags has someone rooting through it, searching for anything of value.

It would have been very interesting to have been here 5 years ago, to see how things have changed. We have not really spoken to anyone about their country`s slide from being the richest place in South America, it`s a hard subject to broach. There are frequent demonstrations, both weekends we have been here. It is hard to tell exactly what their cause is, there are the usual suspects, the rent-a-mob with red banner adorned with pictures of Lenin. Much the same as the Socialist Workers who seem to be omnipresent in the UK (perhaps with the exception of the pro-hunting demos?!). There is graffiti daubed on walls with the IMF as the target, and for those who have read Globalisation and Its Discontents by Stiglitz, former big cheese in the IMF, then it is clear why they are the target.

On the subject of speach, a word on their accents. We learnt in Ecuador, where (apparently) they have very clear pronunciation, the equivalent of "BBC English". Here in Argentina they have an accent that does cause us problems. All the y and ll becomes more of a sh. So here it sounds like everybody is trying to do an impression of Sean Connery trying to shhpeak Shhpanishh.

Goooooooooooooool Argentina!!!!!!!!!
More football. After seeing Ecuador beat Colombia for the first time in ages back in May, there is now another round of World Cup qualifiers. But you all know that because you were probably busy watching us beat Wales and Azerbajhan. We haven`t managed to get the timing right with a Brazil match, but seeing Argentina is clearly the next best thing. The match against their "brother" country, Uruguay, doesn`t hold quite the appeal of a clash with Brazil or Colombia, and Uruguay are not the force they once were, but there is a certain local rivally that still makes it quite a big game.

It was held at the River Plate stadium, a capacity of about 80,000 and there were probably about 65,000 there. Argentina walked into a 3-0 halftime lead, and eventually ran out winners 4-2. Class prevalied, and even 4-2 was flattering to Uruguay. Not quite the spectacle I had expected, not much torn paper fluttering through the air, not many bog rolls diving towards the pitch, but it still had that latin feel. Not as constantly noisy as the game we saw at the Maracana in Rio, but a great event at a great stadium.

It is of course hard for any England fan to support Argentina, for ahost of reasons, but we did and were glad to do so. We had hoped to finish the day, after the football in the afternoon, with a curry. We had found an indian restaurant in BsAs and Saturday night was the ideal time to try it. Unfortunately they were shut! Saturday night! So we had to have a wonderful slab of fillet steak instead, which was very tasty, but we`d been looking forward to a curry for about 3 months! We did manage to have a Thai meal the first day we got to BsAs, which was also something that had been long anticipated. The food here is very good, as it was in Rio, but it would be nice to have a little more variety, with SE Asian and Indian food top of the list.

We took a city tour, to get to see a few places we might not otherwise have seen. La Boca, home to Boca Juniors football club, is also home to the old docks and the birthplace of tango, originally a dance between men who worked in the docks. It was only after the tango received recognition in London and Paris, 30 years afetr its birth, that it became accepted by the middle and upper classes in Argentina. La Boca is also famous for brightly coloured houses, the tradition having been started when they were painted with the leftovers of the paints used for ships.

Part of the old town has markets and tango dancing in the streets on Sunday. A touch touristy, but a very pleasant few hours nonetheless. The flea market had lots of old coins, banknotes (in particular those from the old regime in Iraq were prominently on show) and a lot of stamps. Given the passion for football here there is a set of stamps to commerate every World Cup, and every time they won the trophy too. A set dedicated to Maradona`s team of 1986, including some of huis first "wonder goal" against England. I was going to ask whether they had any stamps showing the "hand of God" incident, but thought better of it.

Uruguay
The day after the football we set off to Uruguay. Montevideo is, like Asuncion, a capital with the feel of a large town. Sadly the first day we were there it was a bank holiday, so nearly everything was shut. So there was nothing else for it but a couple of trips to the cinema, with a cheap haircut (80p) in between to fill the gap. (The 80p haircut is slightly uneven, and I`m still wondering whether to let Phillippa at it with the scissors on my Swiss army penknife. She`s quite keen but this is potentially the most risky thing I`ve done since we left the UK.)

The following day it was tanking down with rain, but that didn`t put us off having a wander round. A pleasant place, but not a huge amount of great note to recommend. The Mercado del Puerto is an old iron structure (similar to Smithfield market) that now contains lots of restaurants. Of course, they all offer very good steaks, so we had another big slab of meat and a bottle of Uruguayan wine.

A whole day of fairly heavy rain seemed a bit odd to us. Aside from some rainy days in the rainforest it has only rained on a handful of ocasions. A bit of drizzle in Rio, some snow in southern Bolivia and in Peru and the rest of the last 5 months has been dry. Yes, every day has been dry. I`m sure that those of you in the UK can´t lay say that for the last 5 months.

Colonia del Sacremento is the other place that the boats from BsAs go to, in addition to direct to Montevideo. A delightful small town, quite sleepy, aside from the cars with massive stereo systems that circle round the centre with propaganda for their chosen political party, the presidential elections are in about 2 weeks. Strangely these elections are not getting as much coverage as the election. We`ve managed to catch more of the election coverage than we ever would have done at home, the odd place we stay in has CNN or BBC World. We even saw the first debats, the VP debate and the final debate, though the last one was simultaneously dubbed into Spanish. In fact we have (obviously) seen more TV in the last 5 months than in the last 4 years! But I digress.

Colonia has a picture-postcard perfect old quarter, on the headland, with cobbled streets, pavement cafés and a lighthouse, which offers excellent views of the town. For anyone going to BsAs I would highly recommend a couple of days in Colonia. Of course we had a couple of decent 4cm thick slabs of steak here too.

It was a bit disappointing not to get to see the countryside at an estancia or ranch. We looked into it but it is not the tourist season here and it didn`t seem that easy to organise, and we only had a few days in Montevideo. Uruguay was well worth a week, but it is not the sort of place that you would come all the way from Europe for. It does mean that I`ve now been to all the countries that have won the World Cup!

We left Uruguay and are now leaving BsAs tonight, heading south. No more big cities now in South America, back to the countryside, trekking and to seeing some of the amazing flora and fauna here.

Yet more vineyards

Location: Buenos Aires

Continuing the boozers`tour with some wine in Mendoza, then onto to Buenos Aires, and an update on the infamous kidnap story.

Last time I left you it was before an overnight bus to Mendoza, which actually passed off OK. The long distance buses here (and in Chile & Peru) have been very good, far better than National Express in the UK, often even the cheap ones on the long routes are Semi-cama, which have reasonable leg room and OK reclining seats. Certainly much more comfortable than flying. So it has not been as bad, spending all these hours on buses, as I had anticipated. Anyway, 15 hours on a bus is certainly preferable to 15 hours in the office.

Although the vineyards we went to in Cafayate, on our cycle tour of the region, were beautiful they were small scale, one producing just 20,000 bottles a year. Mendoza is the big wine region of Argentina, so we had to go an explore here too. The books say it is a bit of an effort to get to the vineyards by local bus but this is not really true, and by about 11am we were sipping our first tastings of the day. The vineyards in the Mendoza region are not as attractive as those in the north. They are large scale operations, without the beautiful backdrop of mountains and countryside, some are near to the Mendoza Industrial estate on the edge of town.

We visited 3 places, had a very nice, long lunch and spent an afternoon with 2 great Americans, who have done pretty much the same route as us in the same time. We were talking about trekking in Peru, after comparing tales of climing Huaya Potosi, when they said that they had heard that there had been some problems near Huayhuash in early July.

"Ahh, funny you should say that, it was us..."

There were stories circulating around the backpackers that we had had all our clothes taken, not sure whether they thought that we had walked off the mountain in boots and boxer shorts. They had heard most of the details, mostly reasonably accurately too.

Then on 1 October I received an email from the British doctor who lives in Peru, our translator during our time under guard on top of the mountain pass. On 27 September, 4 Israelis, in their 20s, were attacked by 4-6 bandits in exactly the same area as we were. Reports suggest that one was shot dead, though some rumours say all 4 have been killed. It is said that all, including the Peruvian staff, were very bady injured and all needed hospital treatment.

So perhaps we were luckier than we appreciated at the time. Or maybe, after 3 years of military training, the Israelis decided not to "collaborate" as fully as we did and tried to be heroes. Maybe the fact that repeatedly assured us that we would not be shot was not just idle scare tactics but was based on the premise that they saw such action as a very possible option available to them.

The kids here seem to have slightly, to our eyes, uniforms. White lab-coats. Or brown lab-coats. This applies for ages between about 6 and 14. So sometimes on a local bus a mass of kids descends and it looks like a convention for under-age doctors (or school caretakers, or mini Arkwright impersonators, "G-g-g-g-get your c-cloth, G-g-granville").

Buenos Aires
Another fairly chunky bus journey from Mendoza, this was scheduled to be about 15hrs. Sadly, due to mechanical problems, we sat in a layby from about 1am to 5am, meaning it ended up being just short of a 20hr trip. We had the foresight to book the deluxe seats, which was a good thing. But the promise of an evening meal and breakfast were not kept to, so it was a long time without food. Luckily we had stuffed our faces that afternoon at another tenedor libre, all-you-can-eat place. We´ve seen some fairly rubbish films on buses over the last few months, and for this journey we had a Steve Martin film that we hadn`t even heard of, possibly a straight to video candidate. And whereas most films have been subtitled, this was dubbed. The dodgy DVD had a soundtrack that started at about 50% missing and ended up at about 90% missing. But this was a great relief, not only because of the language, but because they had the volume so high that even with ear plugs in it was too loud. Without ear plugs there would have been blood trickling from our ears.

BsAs itself seems, from the couple of days we have had so far to be very pleasant. As people say, it is very European, the view from our hotel balcony could almost be of a boulevard in Paris, and a whole host of the important municipal buildings appear to be heavily influenced by French styles. Lots of very attractive parks dotted throughout the city. The old docks area has been tarted up, in much the same way as it has in towns and cities in the UK. Nice apartments and decent restaurants.

We have a few more days here, including a concert at the main opera house (wrong season for opera) and then on Saturday is another big World Cup 2006 qualifier, Argentina at home to neighbours Uruguay.

More Vineyards

Location: Mendoza, Western Argentina

In which we go to Paraguay, gorge ourselves on steak, visit more vineyards, and cycle 50km across a desert in the middle of the day.

After Iguacu we hopped on a bus and went to Ascuncion in Paraguay. On the way we had to pass through the border town of Ciudad del Este, a known as the supermarket of South America, for the mass of electronic stores, and shops selling just about everything else.

We asked a few people, at the hotel and a travel agency, what we should see or do in PAraguay, and they all said that there really is not much to do. And these are the people in the tourist industry! For one day we took a tour around some of the villages surrounding the capital, seeing a few churches and the farms that abound throughout the countryside. The following morning we had a city tour of Ascuncion. Again, as we have seen elsewhere, they have slum areas very near to the heart of the city. In this case right next to the presidential building. Paraguay was interesting to a point, but I`m not sure I would recommend a visit there.

From Ascuncion it was only about 5 hours to Resistencia in Northern Argentina. This involved a fairly intense time at the border crossing. It took ages to process everyone off all the buses passing that way, which meant a lot of waiting around. There were a lot of unsavoury types just hanging around, offering to help with bags etc. The Paraguayan boder chap who dealt with our passports warned us to be extremely careful as there were lots of Argentinian thieves about. He may have been being unfair to assume they were all Argentinian, but it made for a nervous time, not helped by the fact that the immigration officials kept our everyone`s passports to be handed back by the driver. I`m never keen on letting mine out of my sight.

On the road into Argentina from the border we were greeted by a massive road sign proclaiming that the Malvinas are Argentinian. Every town we have been to has a street called Malvinas Argentinas and we`ve spotted one chap on a bus with bracelet saying the same thing (although he was probably too young to have been born in ´82). On checking the Americas section of BBC news one of the top stories is of a kid on a killing spree in a school in the south of the country, and the name of the school? Islas Malvinas. So it seems like this is still a sore point, unless these are all hangovers from the days of the Military dictatorship who invaded the Falklands.

The people we have met to date have probably been the most friendly and helpful we have encountered anywhere, which makes it much more pleasant travelling around, and there certainly isn`t the edge that we felt in Rio, which is a big plus!

Resistencia was a sleepy town with not much going on. We had thought about visiting the Chaco region but the transport was limited and virtually nothing was open over the weekend so we just left after a day of slobbing around trying to find somewhere open to eat.

So off to Salta. This put us not far from where we were a couple of months ago, just south of the Unyuni salt flats and a east of San Pedro de Atacama. But we`ve covered a lot of ground since then. Salta is a large city, but the centre has the feel of a smaller place, with a very pretty central square. We had been waiting for Argentina to get hold of some good steak and abottle of red wine. We were not disappointed here. It was a long overnight bus trip to get to Salta, so the first day was just taken up with strolling about and taking a well deserved siesta.

Cachi
Salta was really just a start point to get to Cachi, even though it was itself pleasant enough. Cachi is a very small town of about 7,000 people. They take their siesta time very seriously here too, which is something I could get used to. The countryside shows multi-coloured strata, with reds and pinks layered with yellows and dark grey-green. Lots of candelabra cacti everywhere, it is classic desert scenery. You almost expect to turn the corner and see Wily Coyote with a box of Acme dynamite. We had a very enjoyable walk to a nearby town, Cachi Adentro, about 20km there and back. Every step we were accompanied by a dog from the point where we started. A friendly little chap, who was always ready to wait for us when we had a water break, or over lunch. He looked like a cross between a golden labrador and a dachshund, so had legs that appeared to be ridiculously short for it.

Cachi was very relaxing, quiet and just what was need for a few days. Unfortunately the links between Cachi and Cafayate are very limited and it was slightly easier to get a 4.5hr bus back to Salta and take another 4.5hr bus the following day to Cafayate.

Cafayate is also a small town, also with a picturesque square, perfect for an early evening beer, whilst waiting until a suitably late hour to go off for dinner. Here people seem to go out at about 10pm, which can be difficult for us! Expecially if we had got up at 6am for an early bus. Restaurants only seem to start getting full just as we are asking for the bill.

The scenery here is also incredible, one of the most beautiful places we have been. The micro climate is suited to grapes and there is a flourishing, albeit very small scale, wine industry. One of the vineyards we visited was a family affair, with 3 hectares producing about 20,000 bottles a year.

We had bicycles for 2 days and the first was spent touring from vineyard to vineyard sampling as we went. Very similar to a great day we had in Sonoma Valley a couple of years ago, though the backdrop was more akin to the mountains you can find at Franchoek, South Africa. A more enjoyable day than that we spent touring a vineyard in Chile, since here we didn`t have to spend ages on public transport there and back, though cycling up a long steady incline on dirt tracks got a bit tiring. Both here and in Chile they are very pruod of the fact that they do not add sugar during fermentation, as some Europeans need to, and that they do not spray their vines with any chemicals, as most Europeans need to. The Chileans at Concho y Toro were also very proud of the fact that they have not been blighted by the root disease that affected the rest of the world, and they helped to re-stock French vineyards.

The second day we took an bus 50km back up the same road that we had arrived on by bus. Here the geography is red canyons, with veins of yellow and beige strata. Strange rock formations resulting from the passage of time. It is very beautiful indeed. It is a bit like Utah, but without the fat people or the Mormons.

The road back follows a wide river bed that had a mere trickle flowing through it now. Sadly we were going in the opposite direction to the water, which meant a fairly steady but gentle incline uphill for a lot of the way back. We finally set off about 10.30am, just when it was starting to warm up nicely. Again, cacti dotted both sides of the road, with some scrubby brush that was green near to the river banks. But none of this provided much shade. By the time we found somewhere to stop for lunch it was pretty hot, high 20s, and the fierce sun made it seem much worse. This is not a bike ride I would choose to do in Summer when the temperature reaches 40-45 Celsius. We nearly had a water shortage at the end, despite taking 2 litres each, and had to cut back a little on the drinking in the last 10km, but there was no crisis and it was a very enjoyable, though very tiring day. The next 2 litre bottle of water was empty within about 10 minutes of getting out of the shop door.

We hadn`t slept too well for a few days due to barking dogs and a Saturday night party next door, so were already quite tired. And what is the best way to get over such a tiring day in the heat and sun? Get up at 5am for a 6 hour bus journey, then rest in a park for a few hours before another 12 hours overnight to Mendoza. We currently in between the park and the bus to Mendoza, so the worst it yet to come....